If you’re reading this, you’re probably ready to take a few simple steps to improve your photography skills. Maybe you’re still shooting on your cellphone, or maybe you’re relying on the auto settings on your camera. Either way, no matter where you’re starting from, the steps below are for you. A few months ago, I decided to take my photography to the next level—here’s what I did.
Step One
Upgrade from your phone to a DSLR or mirrorless camera (don’t actually ditch your phone—you might need it). iPhone cameras can take impressive photos, but if you want to become a stronger photographer (or work professionally), upgrading your camera gear makes a real difference. In travel photography and event photography especially, a phone camera often doesn’t capture the scene the way it looks in real life. Once you upgrade and start researching lenses, you’ll be able to create images your phone simply can’t.
Do your research for this step—seriously. Google, read reviews, and spend time with blog posts and comparison guides. I almost bought the Nikon D3500, which is a great-quality camera for a fraction of the price. The only issue for me was the weight. I chose the Fujifilm X-T3 because it’s much lighter than many DSLR options. Fujifilm is a mirrorless camera, meaning it doesn’t use a reflex mirror; light passes straight to the digital sensor. A DSLR (digital single-lens reflex) uses a mirror system—something mirrorless cameras don’t have.
You can also choose a film camera, which can absolutely elevate your photos, but there are a few things to consider. Film cameras require buying film and paying for development, which can get expensive—unless you plan to learn darkroom developing yourself.
The right camera depends on what feels best in your hands and what type of photography you want to do. If you’re shooting travel photography or weddings and you’ll be on your feet for long periods, a smaller, lighter Fujifilm might be a better fit. If you have larger hands and want a more substantial grip, a DSLR may feel more comfortable. Either way, at almost any price point, it’s an upgrade. You don’t need the “best of the best” when you’re starting out, and you don’t need to overspend.
Some great beginner cameras include: Nikon D3500, Fujifilm X-T30, Canon EOS 250D, Canon EOS M50, Sony A6000.
Please shop through accredited camera stores. Online, I recommend Adorama, B&H Photo + Video, or KEH for used gear. If you buy a camera on Amazon, you risk ending up with a grey market camera—one that looks fine but may have issues or lack proper support.
Step Two
Invest in a beginner photography class. I took a Udemy class before deciding to pursue my master’s, and it helped me a lot. It made composition and camera settings much easier to understand. You can also learn a lot from YouTube tutorials, but I know for me, if I don’t pay for something, I tend to put it off. If you’re serious about becoming a stronger photographer, a structured beginner class is worth it.
I decided to pursue my master’s because I may continue my education toward a doctorate. I also wanted to understand more than just taking pictures—I wanted to create images that tell a story and communicate emotion. It also felt like a meaningful way to build my portfolio while learning from a more advanced perspective. When I first started, I wasn’t sure which direction I wanted to take. Lately, I’ve been increasingly drawn to fashion photography, and I see a master’s as a strong stepping stone for me—and it could be for you, too.
Step Three
Switch to manual mode and learn the exposure triangle. Once you upgrade to a DSLR, mirrorless, or film camera, it’s time to start shooting in manual mode. In manual mode, exposure is up to you. I recommend downloading a simple exposure triangle chart and keeping it with you while you practice. Also, use your camera’s exposure meter—it will show whether your photo is overexposed or underexposed. When it reads 0, you’re technically “correctly” exposed. That said, part of developing your style is choosing how you want an image to look. You may intentionally overexpose or underexpose for a creative effect—just be careful not to blow out highlights or lose too much detail in the shadows. (Refer to the photos showing a blown-out sky.)
Manual mode gives you full control over shutter speed, aperture, and ISO. Start by keeping your ISO as low as possible—higher ISO usually adds more digital noise. Shutter speed affects both exposure and motion: a faster shutter speed freezes action, while a slower shutter speed creates motion blur. (See the photos below for examples.) Aperture affects exposure and depth of field. A shallow depth of field (blurry background with a small area in focus) comes from a wider aperture—which is shown as a smaller f-number. A deeper depth of field (more of the scene in focus) comes from a narrower aperture—which is shown as a larger f-number.
One of my biggest suggestions for learning your camera controls is to practice finding your settings without looking—try it a few times a week and see if you can remember where everything is. One reason I chose Fujifilm is that the ISO and shutter speed controls are physically located on the top of the camera, which makes it easier for beginners to see what they’re adjusting. For more on mastering manual mode, check out my blog post.
Step Four
Practice consistently—and push yourself. Practice is what builds both skill and confidence. If you’re serious about improving, try to shoot every day. Push yourself outside your comfort zone, too. If landscapes feel easy, try portrait photography or self-portraits.
I also recommend switching your camera to RAW. You can find instructions in your camera manual or online for your specific model. Shooting in RAW gives you more image data, which makes editing much easier and gives you far more flexibility in post-production than starting with a JPEG.